Nicole and Michael Colovos made the leap to the runway for spring after a few seasons showing their collection of luxurious urban minimalism via showroom appointment. Seeing their fall collection, newly tricked up and cruelty-free — they stopped using leather, fur and animal skins — did nothing for the cause of keeping runway shows relevant. (Nor did Spring Studios, ground-zero this season for IMG’s fresh hell of an over-branded, over-staffed obstacle course.)

Whereas the Colovos’ early collections felt like quiet, cool discoveries, the fall lineup was amplified for the stage with orange quilted pants, faux fur and leather, and tailoring done with excessive exposed seams that didn’t thrive under the glare of the klieg lights. Pushing creativity is important for young brands, but so is finding the right environment in which to present.

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