In 2002, Esteban Cortazar launched his namesake label in New York, but for the past 12 years has been based out of, and shown, in Paris. For his fall collection,”I’d been toying a lot with the idea of celebrating the different cities where I’ve grown, where I’ve nurtured my brand,” the Columbian designer explained. That notion is what inspired his return to NYFW. In particular, his fall line was a love letter to South America. “A tapestry of different ideas, different experiences,” he said backstage of the many ideas that went into the collection.
Cortazar said wool and cashmere blend gray coats with sporadically placed tufts of candy colored mohair were a starting point for the season. That mohair detail was incorporated on several silhouettes, but was best interpreted on an artful sheer organza skirt paired with a belted denim jacket. Primary colored rock beads also played to the inspiration; they adorned a halter tank worn under an effortless white shirtdress or were hand-beaded on the bust of a more sensual, white tank dress. The best looks came as knits: chunky cream-colored shorts paired with an oversize cardigan and button down with his signature hardware, or a dark red knit that wrapped around a coordinating button down and pant set. There were also graphic knits, sensual dresses and flowy separates with touches of brushed velvet, black and white stripes and athleticism.