For fall, Tuomas Merikoski built on past obsessions, including volume and logos, and paraded the results in a foggy school gymnasium with spotlights. Light also emitted from an oversized neon sign proclaiming Love Records, an alternative Finnish music label from the Sixties.
The designer pushed his volumes into new territory, which he used to feed his theme of asymmetry. Tailored coats and suit jackets had mismatching sleeves, often puffing out wildly on just one side. Chunky sweaters took on new forms altogether, transformed by elevated shoulders to project a cape-like feel. Even silkiness took on new texture, with a new bubbly purple jacquard used for a diagonally cut skirt.
“Everything is bolder,” Merikoski said of his sculptural shapes.
The accessories were bolder, too. Long, oversized gloves were cinched past the elbow — elegant in leather and equally inviting as mittens, snowboarder style. Repack’s recyclable nylon delivery bags were back, rolled up this time and tucked under wrists.
Another theme: the Finnish epic “Kalevala,” a historic poem of creation — folklore at the heart of his country’s national identity. “It’s this kind of fantasy world which is still anchored in reality, of real topics, of life,” said the designer. Which is kind of how the clothing felt — a bit odd, yes, but also appealing enough to work in the real world.