Alexandre Vauthier’s showroom looked as bright and shiny as a box of Quality Street chocolates with the racks stacked with more tempered takes on his spring 2018 Eighties couture extravaganza — split into purple, dark green and red sections. (Think peasant looks à la Yves Saint Laurent, minis tacked with giant taffeta bows, and Cossack-style bottoms.)

The idea, suggested Vauthier, gesturing to a purple velvet puffer, zebra-motif sequin pants and polka dot top, is to mix up textures and prints on looks and maybe break it up with a T-shirt. New techniques included knitted sequin dresses.

From a draped emerald glitter gown to a velvet tuxedo and décolleté mini with jeweled buttons, the focus was on after-dark, but the designer had thrown in a few casual items like a satin sweatshirt and velvet tracksuit for those clients who, even when in leisure mode, like to keep up appearances.

The growing brand counts around 150 stockists now, and entered the U.K. market last season, including Selfridges and Harrods, with its shoe line in Browns.

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