For the first Paris runway show of his 10-year-old Beautiful People brand, designer Hidenori Kumakiri drew on his experience in pattern-making to consider the encounter of a masculine wardrobe with the female body.

To achieve this, the Japanese designer took a cue from the tactics used to adjust garments on the go, and made them permanent by employing them as morphing methods for his shapes.

Case in point: a duffel coat with a voluminous hood looked slim-line, and its back revealed how panels had been pulled back and sewn instead of being left to be overlapped; a jacket was likewise nipped in at the waist as if it had been pulled in, but fell impeccably in the back; a trench coat wrapped diagonally around the body, with all bulk removed, and a chimney-necked knit column dress managed the feat of being at once oversized and body-skimming.

Poorly executed, this could have looked forced. As it stands, it looked as effortless as it felt fresh.

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