There was a more outgoing side to buyer-turned-designer Keiko Onose’s fall collection, her first on the official presentation calendar. Onose has built her business through her understanding of what women want to buy, crafting pared-back, understated designs in high-end fabrics: pretty pleated skirts, chunky knits and minimalistic wool coats.
But there were also touches of eccentricity that could add a bit of oomph to the wardrobe, both in the increased focus on color — vivid yellow pants, a fuchsia skirt and a variety of hues of green — and in her quirkier designs. These included a pair of wide, pleat-fronted pants in a bronze and green check that could not have been more on trend, and beige silk tops dotted with tufts of fur that were fun but perhaps less of a commercial fit.
Falling between these two registers, a black shearling bomber with fur-tipped sleeves and a voluminous plaid blanket coat were among the high notes.