The smell of incense hung heavily in the smoke-filled air of a Diana Vreeland-esque private apartment, where Andra Dumitrascu showed her fall collection. Guests wandered through rooms staged as a séance complete with tarot readers and eerie musicians.

Rushing through the smoke, feet clad in thin hotel slippers, the models evoked wraiths from another plane of existence. It was nigh on impossible to make out much: a wide suit in brash orange that felt of-the-moment; extra-wide blouses that fell almost to the knee, and a shirt that looked like it was a kimono, flattened and stitched into place.

In the kitchen, Dumitrascu said she was inspired by the blindness that occurs after looking into the sun, and themes from Werner Herzog’s “Land of Silence and Darkness.” She therefore focused on tactile fabrics like liquid leathers, featherweight nylons but also thick Austrian lodens, while playing long and loose with proportions, putting on equal footing board shorts, trousers or the caftans that have become her signature of sorts in past seasons, for men or women.

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