Dusan Paunovic’s minimalistic focus on high-end materials offered a few surprises for fall. Among the purist double-faced cashmere and wool coats, painted tweed or linen and wool tailoring, super-soft knits and signature outsized — the more cynical of mind might say shapeless — jumpsuits, there were also some appealing pieces that made more of a statement, if you listened hard.

These included extra-wide pleated palazzo pants in taupe lamé, and a long sleeveless coat with an Asian influence in silk jacquard with graphic motifs that looked to be painted on but were actually woven into the specially developed fabric, testament to the Serbian-born designer’s obsession with the raw materials that are the cornerstone of his work.

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