As he eases into his position, Marco Colagrossi’s presentation in the house’s historic headquarters felt more fitting than a runway show. The tightly edited collection was focused on updates on a house signature: sexy Eighties-flavored party dresses in bold print mixes.
The designer threw into the shaker all the Ungaro codes — polka dots, stripes and flowers — working in a colored camouflage print that resurfaced on the leathers. He carried over his running flower theme on leather jackets and a suede coat with collars in the shape of rounded flower petals, which were cute.
Also on show was a matching debut shoe line under new licensee, Malone Souliers.
Some of the abstract illustrated flower prints recalled the work of Portuguese fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, with a Spanish mood running through the collection, especially the ruched minis with poufy sleeves in the shape of Minnie Mouse ears.
“They’re for a fashion maven, but a price conscious one,” said the designer, who is taking a “pragmatic” approach to the house’s repositioning, in terms of both style and market, steering it in a more approachable, younger direction. “You can dance in them and if you spill red wine, it’s not the end of the world. It’s not couture.”