For her runway debut, Anaïs Mak wanted to show how her good girl is grown up now, with what the show notes described as a “recontextualization of the ladies-who-lunch genre.” She played with the ultimate French bourgeois staple, tweed, roughing it up with fil coupé edges in metallic pastel tones or using it on outsized down coats. While fun, the designs were overtly referential and lacking in the originality that gave Mak’s previous collections their cool-girl edge.

The Anaïs Jourden woman had a penchant for transparency, worked in tulle adorned with tinsellike tufts and metallic grid patterns on Mak’s signature ruched dresses, or as pointillist lace cycling shorts that did little to flatter the form.

Among the stronger looks, an allover tassel fabric had more of an impact on a black satin background, for example, as a one-shouldered cocktail dress with a contrasting burgundy lace under layer. Coming of age is tough, and everyone has a right to an awkward teenage moment.

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