When a brand is this closely identified with its founder, even a change of facial hair has commercial implications. Karl Lagerfeld’s new beard has his team mulling whether to tweak the Lagerfeld caricature that pops up on everything from handbags to iPad cases.

His main collection is immune from such risks. Ranging from strict tailoring to logo-heavy ath-leisure, the fall line drew inspiration from architecture, with references ranging from Art Deco to Zaha Hadid. A black cape coat featured a stitched satin lapel, while the seams of a LBD recalled perspective lines.

Lagerfeld’s name was writ large on everything from sweatshirts with elbow splits to a cheerleader top with a matching skirt, and appeared as a ticker tape motif on jeans and handbags. Also dropping next fall: Lagerfeld’s collaboration with Kaia Gerber, with a West Coast-meets-Left Bank sensibility.

The designer is famed for his ability to take on the personality of the brands for which he designs, whether that’s Chanel and Fendi now, or Chloé in the Eighties. But at the house of Lagerfeld, it’s rightly all about Karl.

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