Christelle Kocher showed her fall collection at the Casino de Paris, a theater dating back to the 19th century. The designer picked the venue, all gold and red velvet, as a counterpoint to her collection, which was inspired by technology — translating into a mix of post-apocalyptic looks and ornate metal foil creations.
Kocher has been reading about artificial intelligence, and the collectible fanzine she hands out at each show was filled with quotes from the likes of J.G. Ballard and Philip K. Dick. “Technology is so full of potential and creativity, and I wanted to bring this kind of more poetic feeling,” she said.
Models snaked through rows of seats in oversize sweatshirt dresses, deconstructed sweaters, and camouflage-printed jackets and pants. A concrete gray dress and top in mille-feuille layers were made of wool jersey, as part of the designer’s ongoing partnership with The Woolmark Co.
At the other end of the spectrum were couture-like creations produced in association with the Chanel-owned specialty atelier Maison Lemarié, where she has been artistic director since 2010. They included a ruffled top, pleated pants and a capelet irregularly stamped with gold foil.
Kocher’s access to this level of craftsmanship is exceptional among young designers, and for guests seated in the theater balcony, it was a shame to see the designs whiz by in dingy lighting. Then again, if Kocher ever grows out of quirky venues, it might strip her collections of some of their soul.