A “strong but free” woman walking in winter, “and as she walks, her clothes come undone.” That’s one of the things Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran imagined, yielding a collection that was as graceful as it was layered up.
The designers built tonal ensembles, pairing skirts over pants with jackets, coats and matching bandanas. A lot of the looks had transformable systems using buttons and ties, with pieces spilling open.
Masculine tailoring was still a strong element, as were long shirtdresses with collars, while softer options included a white dress with sleeves covering the hands and button-front pants in an eggshell marble silk wool jacquard that looked as delicate as lace. The drape-y black tops in a dry silk evoking leather were arresting.
A romantic, historical theme leaked through. The more literal nods included minimalist loafers topped with buttoned gaiters, and high-collared tops with balloon sleeves. But theirs was a deconstructed take on retro ideas that never felt vintage looking.
A stronger sporty, urban touch could also be felt. As the seven-year-old label matures, the duo seems to be moving away from their signature basics and getting a bit more daring, whilst losing none of the elegance and ease that the label is known for.