Lilia Litkovskaya likes to focus on innovative materials, which for her second Paris presentation included perforated wool, waxed guipure and leather treatments. Staging her showcase at L’Eclaireur, among her growing number of stockists, the Ukrainian designer mixed these with tailored wool stripes and checks and fluid silk.

Among the highlights were a hand-embroidered leather bodice worked into a giant flower in a rich brown patina, and paired with front-pleat tailored pants in matching brown and blue. A collarless coat suit in the same striped wool also struck a chord, as did an intriguing navy- lue trenchcoat, made with leather that was laser-cut to give it the look of roughed-up velvet.

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