Lutz Huelle took out his scissors again and this season tackled the coats, jean jackets and military-style bombers.
“I thought, I’m going to cut into patterns and see how they fall — just open them,” he explained, backstage after the show. He made it sound simple, but that’s the sign of a pro.
Adding panels of fabric, including shearling, a Lurex jacquard and a strange quilted metallic material, he rearranged the hemlines, and much of the rest, as well. Classic pieces including an elegant herringbone coat and a white cotton blouse were transformed, too, by extra-wide sleeves with voluminous puffs on the shoulders.
This latest installment of his ongoing endeavor to transfer couture codes to streetwear struck the right tone. He’s not the only one chasing this ambition, but is clearly one of the more successful.
The last model in the lineup carried a message on her plain black T-shirt: “There is no one like you.” Closing the show, the models skipped down the runway in a crowd, dancing to a pop number by Cher and relaying another Huelle message — positive vibes.