The room was hung with giant white screens printed with black illustrations of each letter of the alphabet and a figure of a woman — faces and bodies with hands on hips or fingers lightly touching — done by M/M Paris. The collection was a parade of kooky, colorful outfits that looked like the result of a collision between the Fifties and the Eighties in the visionary hands of Miuccia Prada, who has positioned Miu Miu into a brand about girls having a lot of fun with their fashion.
She said the alphabet was M/M’s idea of behavior and comportment, and the clothes were her expression of style inclusivity, different looks for different personalities. “What I feel like I’m doing that’s different from the past is thinking fashion is not just my own fantasy, but discussing it and making it available to other people,” Prada said after the show. What she meant by that was a bit unclear. She mentioned having Elle Fanning open and close the show and trying to give the models a say in what they wore, which seems like it would create a nightmare for the stylist. The casting was done with diversity in mind — black girls, white girls, shorter girls, curvier girls, all of whom still looked very much like models.
Regardless of any deep democratic thoughts, the clothes were for women with strong personalities, types who will be buying in on the Eighties fever sweeping the season. Stonewashed high-waisted jeans with a thick elastic waistband were worn with not one but two mismatched belts, as well as polo shirts, bright sweaters and giant bomber jackets in colorful tweeds. Fuzzy white socks were stuffed into flat patent Mary Janes. The silhouette shifted from throwback preppy to retro glam with Fifties-ish ruched floral dresses that could’ve had a past in a prom of yore, and big leather coats with dropped shoulders and puffed sleeves in wacky pantones of cement gray, purple, teal and red. The look was trimmed in knit collars, flat booties decorated with bows and satin shoes that folded down over the foot, all of them done in graphic brights that hit the bull’s-eye of garish appeal in which Prada specializes.