For his first Parisian presentation, Seoul-born designer Moohong Kim offered a sharply deconstructed collection in which the wardrobe of corporate bourgeois meets class warriors, all inspired by his reflection on a critique of violence.

Sounds too highfalutin a theme? Kim was not destined for fashion. After studying at Paris’ prestigious political science university Sciences Po, he read economics at the University of Warwick in Coventry, England. But instead of writing his Ph.D. thesis, he got the itch to design. “To me, designing is the same process as studying: it’s about trying out new ideas,” he said.

With no formal training but with technical lineage — his mother is Paris-based designer Moon Young Hee — he launched the brand in 2014 at Seoul’s fashion week and promptly picked up L’Eclaireur, Antonioli in Milan, Los Angeles’ H.Lorenzo and Corso Como Shanghai as stockists.

Kim’s research method is manipulating tailoring and textiles to experiment with novel silhouettes. Conversation starters for this season were jacket halves spliced together at odd angles by zips; a coated cotton that looked like real leather, opposite cracked leather that looked man-made; shirts that fall askew, leaving one sleeve hanging without function, or sneakers dismantled and reassembled into Chelsea boots.

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