Barely two weeks after Mulberry staged its first see-now-buy-now show for spring during London Fashion Week, the brand presented its full fall lineup during Paris. A light-filled mirrored showroom was set up to multiply the spectrum of candy colors, florals and fluffy feathers that gave Johnny Coca’s collection an ultra-feminine zing.
He captured the daffy British way of clashing the traditional and the irreverent by pairing cartoony Seventies English florals in an Easter parade palette on lean dresses and mumsy suits and trimming collars, socks and mules with marabou. Classic tailoring got the festive treatment with wide-brimmed visor hats and jewels done in exaggerated heart shapes.
“I wanted it to be extreme but with a sense of sophistication,” said Coca. “There’s tailoring mixed with a Marilyn boudoir feeling.” To that end, some of the floral and feathered trapeze dresses would have qualified as glam lay-around-the-house leisurewear back in the Fifties, but would now be suited for a night out. The accessories were just as bold, with bright mules and dancing shoes done with crystal heels and trimmed in detachable jewels and feather. Bags came in heart-shaped quilting and floral prints that felt like more than a nod toward Gucci, but Coca’s collection held its own in the world of wacky ladylike glamour.