It was business as usual at 2018 LVMH semifinalist Ottolinger, where Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient showed new twists on their Swiss-inspired designs as a guerrilla show taking over the windows of stores near Paris’ city hall.

But don’t expect any dirndls and wholesome “Sound of Music” numbers. Reframed through the lens of 2018, a cow collar with medallions became a modern-day bandolier belt while the deconstruction hard-wired into the brand’s DNA left nothing safe: the traditional kölsch check pattern was either burnt and stained (when recognizable) or worn all over (when revisited in an acid-trippy swirl version); the dirndl’s outline was on the neckline of a poplin shirt or as a midriff-baring denim jacket, and corduroy and technical outerwear were revisited in a near-unisex manner that highlighted inclusive sensuality, rather than femininity.

Where others this season made the destruction appear random, here there was deliberateness in the way denim was methodically taken apart and sewn to conform to the body’s shapes, leaving graphic seams running down the legs. Likewise the spidery patterns on a chiffon dress, seams placed where the fabric had draped.

Dotted as pins or earrings, jewelry in collaboration with Rome-based English artist Joanne Burke featured spoons, once symbols of wealth, and completed the look.

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