Ximon Lee may have moved to the women’s wear schedule, but that doesn’t mean that the Chinese-born, Parsons-trained 2016 LVMH finalist is changing his tack — if anything, it’s a business decision made to fit the nature of his art-heavy work and the brand’s production schedule.
“I invest what is gained in the pure concept aspect of my work into the commercial collection. They speak to each other, but there is no energy lost there,” Lee said after the first of a series of performances titled “Master of Mess,” in collaboration with Berlin-based Chinese artist Pan Daijing. (Daijing is a regular collaborator who provided this season’s baleful ambience, a cross between a rusty door and a wailing whale.) An expanded performance is planned for March 30 in Shanghai.
Lee moves ever further into the conceptual aspect of his work, and chose the image of a sculpture encased in cloth as a starting point for the season. A mix of wool, cotton, polyester and elastic yarns steamed to take advantage of their different shrinkage characteristics looked like a melted mass that had been poured over silhouettes that swirled and trailed around the body.
If the occasional recognizable garment shapes, say impeccably tailored slacks to go with a shredded shroud of a top, happened in the mix, well, that’s just all the better to continue snagging his growing fan base of collectors and retailers such as Opening Ceremony and Lane Crawford.