Y’s design atelier took inspiration from vintage couture references for fall, calling attention to the craftsmanship behind the designs in a collection that was particularly strong on the outerwear and — perhaps because of its inspiration — dived deeper into feminine territory.
For the label’s core Black collection, contrasting white basting was left in place on the label’s staple outsized black gabardine jackets, while on other designs, buttons were replaced by stitchwork, visible in their absence and replaced by hidden press studs.
Among specially developed fabrics, there was a houndstooth check that looked to be a patchwork but wasn’t, adding a new spin on the ongoing plaid trend with a boxy jacket or the house’s recurrent asymmetric pinafore dress. There was also a paisley jacquard wool/cupro blend in shades of blue and green that worked to contrast Y’s signature androgynous shapes with the femininity of the fabric.
Moving into military territory, the collection offered up plenty of khaki, worked in several coats, including a surprisingly lightweight belted wool number with turquoise knit edging details that gave it a homespun twist. A red wool cocoon coat was another standout, its fabric subtly worked to be heavy in parts, lighter in others.
In the lineup for the Pink collection, there was vintage inspiration of a rawer sort, focusing on the fabrics in their brut form. A brown wool boiler suit epitomized this approach — thankfully, it was fully lined in cotton for comfort’s sake. Cropped pants, meanwhile, used the fabric edge, complete with its supplier’s name, as a fun design feature.