Zuhair Murad may be best known for his opulent red-carpet creations, but with his fall collection, he continued to expand on daywear and tailored pieces, aiming to offer his embellishment-loving customer a breadth of options, and open up to younger consumers, too.
He cross-referenced the Edwardian theme of pre-fall while name-dropping rock ‘n’ roll muses of the Seventies like Anita Pallenberg, Marianne Faithfull and Nico, with women’s emancipation the common thread.
This informed the shapes of many pieces and the distinctive bohemian influence that also translated in the motifs of the season, inspired by Moldovan folk art — recognized by UNESCO and often the preserve and livelihood of women.
A rich color palette of deep red, fuchsia, purple and emerald was set against a black background, recalling the tapestries and costumes of the Balkans with their floral motifs set in square frames.
The collection was worked in a variety of techniques, from all-over embellishment to more accessible thread embroideries and fil coupé. Knit jacquard interpretations offered a more casual look, while in velvet devoré or printed chiffon, they provided a softer, more fluid take.
In the embroidered register, there were of course plenty of beautiful statement gowns to go around, but there were also embellished hippie blouses and mini dresses, a cute bomber jacket that would work a treat with jeans and sneakers, and a playsuit with a fringe skirt for a more contemporary take on awards-season dressing.
Tailored pieces and outerwear were worked in velvet or wool and featured embroidered motifs, fringing inspired by piano shawls, or touches of fox fur. In leather, there were bright capes with embroideries and studding that recalled military motifs, while a biker jacket was given a touch of romanticism with its colorful appliqué flowers.
Certain looks were grounded on over-the-knee stocking boots, embroidered up their entire length and built on a stiletto base.