Bianca Saunders’ spring 2020 outing was a sophisticated evolution from previous seasons, with the designer confidently pushing her signature shirring technique into new pieces and showing some accomplished tailoring in the lineup.

She once again turned to her circle of friends for inspiration, using as a starting point for the collection her recent film, “Unravelling,” in which Saunders’ male friends talk about what masculinity means to them. In particular, Saunders looked to her friend and interviewee Eldon Somers, an artist and DJ who usually performs in formal clothing, worn with irreverence and a disregard for gender boundaries.

Somers was one of the models in Saunder’s presentation, sitting cross-legged on the floor as he mixed the event’s sound piece in a gray ensemble made from crisp cotton.

Elsewhere, Saunders’ shirring technique turned up in a head-to-toe ensemble in soft khaki, with pants that unzipped at the hem to create a flared silhouette, while a pair of taupe wrap-front pants had slits at the hem and were worn with a white tank.

She showed growing skill in a terrific ox blood leather coat, worn over a string knit top and indigo jeans, and in the collection’s boxy suiting. A butter yellow shirt and a pair of leather pants in the aforementioned red demonstrated a lovely use of color pairing.

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