Emilia Wickstead immersed herself in “The Godfather” trilogy, enchanted by the quintessentially Southern Italian charm and refinement that defined Francis Ford Coppola’s film series.
For her latest fall presentation, she took over the Art Deco restaurant Le Caprice, hosting an intimate salon-style show and transporting her guests back to this nostalgic universe, complete with classic Italian music, head scarves, pearls and lavish fabrics galore.
The character of Mary Corleone — played by Sofia Coppola in the film — and her signature berets were at the center of the story line dreamed up by Wickstead.
The designer also drew from the men’s wear codes on-screen, delivering tailored jumpsuits and mannish coats in a traditional palette of chocolate brown, or draping leather over a suit — a reference to the movies’ distinct gangster vibe and abundance of leather jackets.
Wickstead ensured that she translated this old-school charm to her own universe of modern femininity. Cue androgynous wool tweeds done in midi dresses with voluminous long sleeves, pleated A-line dresses featuring wallpaper prints that could have easily been taken out of one of the lavish rooms on the movie set and romantic bouclé tweed suits accessorized with pearl-embellished headscarves, like the ones worn by Corleone.
For the finalé, Wickstead went all-out, delivering a lineup of striking gowns in rich velvets and exaggerated volumes. Among the most striking pieces were a white column gown featuring large black bows on the shoulders and a hand-stitched red velvet number with balloon sleeves and a dramatic train.