Henry Holland channeled his frustration with the state of global affairs into a show that drew upon a plethora of cultural references. “It’s a global collection where we’re trying to make the point of you can’t build a wall around creative inspiration; You can’t close a border around ideas,” he explained, quickly jesting, “and I think that is probably the deepest thing I’ve ever said in one of my collections.”
Despite the weighty issues at hand, Holland deployed his signature sense of fun to deliver his message. He united East and West through bold fabric mixes, and contrasted military details with feminine touches.
He began with a series of orange Prince of Wales check looks: an overcoat, a lovely blazer cinched with an obi belt and worn with a fluid teal devoré velvet skirt in a reptilian pattern, and a similarly belted, balloon-sleeved dress over a devoré turtleneck — all worn with berets and Grenson hiking boots.
Cambodian scarf prints appeared in a couple of fetching looks — a tracksuit of sorts and a one-shouldered dress, while a Mexican blanket stripe pattern adorned a winning wrap coat and a minidress with poufy sleeves.
There were feminine touches in the ombré pink lace mididress, styled with a huge padded orange pussy bow, and in an indigo and red tie-dye silk twist-front dress. But the standout looks were those with the heaviest martial leaning: a trench with a huge collar and cargo pockets, and a khaki quilted jacket with yellow and orange chevron panels fastened by yellow frog closures.