The designer conjured the elements for this volcanic color blast of a collection, which she paraded in the courtyard of the private bank Coutts, the walls draped with white canvas. She also took a new turn, working prints of fire and swirling marble onto long organza dresses with ruffles or leather trousers and coats, and put a new focus on eveningwear, opening her show with Natalia Vodianova in a lemon yellow puff of a dress. A cracked earth pattern surfaced throughout this busy collection, emerging on skinny skirts, high boots and a vast jacquard cape.

The best looks came in gentle rainbow ombrés, in gradations of red or green, that spilled over long chubby coats or tailored Prince of Wales check topcoats, and the long organza dresses — some printed, others not — with their bouncing, frothing ruffles and feathery bits. The swirl of colored marble breathed new life into skinny leather trousers.

Much of Katrantzou’s ideas were swallowed up by too much layering, detail and texture. Indeed, it was difficult at times for the eye to focus, with so much going on. The cracked earth pattern on a long-sleeved top had to compete for attention with the crystal-embellished wrap dress that overlayed it. Other sparkly dresses had big ombré ruffle collars edged in crystal fringe — an avalanche of color, texture and sparkle. There were so many great ideas and techniques here, and they deserved to stand alone.

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