Previous Peter Pilotto collections have been inspired by the destinations Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos have visited on their travels, with recent show venues like last season’s basement tiki bar serving to transport their audiences as well.
This season, they looked to home shores for inspiration, taking the concept of Britishness as the starting point for their fall 2019 collection, and underlining the theme through a very British location: the Reform Club on Pall Mall (of Monopoly fame). Short of holding it at Buckingham Palace, that’s about as British as it gets.
The audience was seated throughout the club’s huge, double-ceilinged library galleries, where former members including Sir Arthur Conan Doyle might have enjoyed a spot of post-prandial brandy once upon a time, as the collection kicked off with a high-waisted pair of tweed trousers with a Lurex sparkle, teamed with a duck-feather print blouse with wafting feather trims down the arms. A nod to shooting traditions, perhaps.
Thereafter came a quick-fire lineup of great looks that drew on Pop Art graphics and the iridescent glimmer of Hungarian Zsolnay ceramics eosin glazes, and made use of velvets, tulle, fil coupé, hammered silks, plissé metallics, checked wools and Lurex jacquard in a collection that nodded to the Seventies in flared trousers and wide lapels, and in the louche seductiveness of evening dresses.
Among the highlights: A dressing gown coat a bright orange chenille wool, trimmed with pink ostrich; tulle gowns in candy floss shades with billowing sleeves and gold passementerie, and a blush pink fil coupé dress with a dainty neck tie that came with matching Alan Buanne shoes and a velvet bag trimmed with thick tassels — a tribute to extravagant British pelmets.