Roksanda Ilincic explored less familiar territory for fall, adding touches of utilitarianism and practicality into her brand of modern femininity.
The designer played with poplin and gabardine fabrics, translating them into chic tapered trousers, blouses with exaggerated balloon sleeves and feather-trimmed gowns which, done in these structured everyday fabrics, had a more contemporary feel.
Ilincic also offered her take on the sporty parka — but hers came with layered peplums and romantic color combinations, handpicked from the “box of precious colors” she collects in her studio and reflecting the sandy hues on the catwalk set, created by the London-based art collective Troika.
These more grounded pieces channeled a tougher feeling and almost looked like protective gear. But they still fit in well with some of the softer, feminine brand signatures revisited by Ilincic, including flowing satin dresses and billowing blouses, as well as a series of pared-back, oat milk-hued jumpsuits and knit dresses that served as a chic palette cleanser in the lineup.
Contrast was the designer’s aim here: “We live in a time that plays on contrast and I’m sure I’m not the only designer who is addressing this. There’s a sort of anxiety we are all feeling about the time that we are living in. That’s why there’s a contrast at the beginning of the show, which is more sober and minimal, and the end, which is more dreamy,” she said backstage.
There sure was tension between Ilincic’s contrasting ideas. But she managed to create a synergy of sorts between the different strands of her lineup, everything coming together to telegraph a message about the kind of easygoing elegance modern women are looking for when getting dressed.