“The clothes aren’t oversized — they’re just bigger,” said Roland Mouret before the show. “I’m showing a size 20 on a size 8 model, I’m showing the clothes on men. Today, it’s not about size or gender, it’s about identity.”
London designers, including Simone Rocha and Osman, have been flying the banner for diversity — and inclusivity — this season, showing looks meant to appeal to a variety of ages, body shapes and personal styles.
For Mouret, inclusivity is all about modernity, acceptance of one’s body, and choosing clothes that can last, and be readapted season after season. “Style,” he said, “can be an answer to waste.” Mouret took model-turned-photojournalist Lee Miller as his muse — a woman who reinvented herself multiple times.
All of those ideas spilled onto the designer’s runway in a glorious pool of color, generous proportions and languid fabrics. Coats were fluid with ties at the wrist — as in the robin’s egg double-wool crepe number that opened the show — or all-enveloping, as in the faux-fur chubbies that came in cinnamon, black or blush. The latter one, which closed the show, was short with a floppy bow at the neck.
In between, there were tailored suits with wide-leg trousers meant to be swapped between ladies and gentlemen, and a lineup of long, draped and fluttery dresses in bright red, sparkly purple, watery gray or patchwork silk twill with a deep V-neck. All of them were designed to highlight the wearer’s assets and obscure any flaws.
This was one of Mouret’s strongest collections for a while: Not plus-size, not size 0, neither youthful nor aging. Just great, easy clothes.