Guests mounted the red-carpeted stairs of the Teatro Manzoni, right in the heart of Milan’s fashion district, and entered another dimension. Neon lights and a lightbox runway showcased the first 1910 Borbonese collection, created by designers Dorian Tarantini and Matteo Mena for historic Italian brand Borbonese.
True to Borbonese chief executive officer Alessandro Pescara’s words, the limited-edition capsule collection was a joyful tribute to the Eighties and their icons. There were hints of Stephanie de Monaco in a boxy buttoned-up red dress, while a peroxide-blond model wearing a silk slipdress sewn on to a technical black top was a dead ringer for Brigitte Nielsen.
“It’s the Eighties, but in a fresh and digital way,” said Tarantini, who was also in charge of the mix of New Wave tracks pumping through the show. “We worked a lot on tailoring, because when you’re 16 or 17 years old, the first time you see a tailleur feels very new.”
Wool suits had square shoulders and curving arms, some of them sporting oversize front buttons on the jackets. The creative duo came up with a landscape print named Arcadia, in reference to the golden age of the Milan party scene, which appeared on long-sleeve tops, flowing silk dresses, leggings and cotton shirts with oversize white collars.
In another throw back to the Eighties, shoes were created in collaboration with Moon Boots and paired with miniskirts. The collection had a vintage feel — a long leather trench looked like a thrift shop score — and was saved from becoming costume-y thanks to the addition of edgy belt bags and buckle details on dresses and trousers.