Setting aside the ironic, playful graphics, which characterized their early efforts, Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana embraced a more urban, glamorous aesthetic.
“The irony is still there but is expressed in a different way,” said Marquez, referring in particular to the intentionally wrong proportions characterizing some of the pieces. For example, a pair of jeans showed an exaggerated high waist and a T-shirt had oversize, boxy shoulders.
A playful touch was introduced via fox fur coats worked in neon colors, also appearing on the threads giving an eye-catching touch to cable knit sweaters and minidresses, while a range of frocks, which seemed designed for young disco queens, featured precious crystal embroideries and cascades of degrade sequins.
Even if the designers’ intention to step out of their comfort zone is definitely remarkable, this collection, which missed a certain cohesiveness and probably the so-called X factor, demonstrated that Au Jour Le Jour still needs to find clear aesthetic codes to fully develop its repositioning strategy.