Anna Molinari is back in business: After taking an ath-leisure detour for spring, where she layered on the day-glo Lycra and toughened up her silhouettes, the designer has come home to the pastel colors, fluffy trimmings and rose prints that have defined this brand over the past 42 years. The opening look may have been spare, but it spoke volumes about Blumarine’s direction for fall. A cream A-line coat with a fur collar worn over a pair of over-the-thigh black boots. It was modern, classic — and luxe — in equal measure.

The palette was broad, glorious and — thankfully — didn’t glow in the dark: Molinari worked macaroon pastels into argyle patterns on a sequin-covered miniskirt and dress, and into a fur chubby and cashmere sweater sets. She picked bright red for the sequin rose embroideries that tumbled down the legs of distressed denim, or the length of a skinny evening gown, and worked the shade into blown-up flower prints on sheer dresses.

The designer’s leopard print was back on the prowl, too, on skinny dresses with built-up shoulders, trench coats with big black bows at the neck and a pencil skirt, with a matching handbag.

Molinari balanced all of that vivacity with the palest of pinks and creams for lacy and languid minidresses and a demure evening gown with a pussy bow and cape. An enveloping bathrobe coat with fluffy trim around the neck and cuffs was snow queen appropriate.

Black played a big role, too, although the looks — a slashed-up, off-the-shoulder dress, lace and satin confections, and pouf skirts — had a witchy, Halloween feel to them and were out of tune with the romantic, soft-focus mood of the collection.

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