In his show notes, Daniele Calcaterra revealed that Amelia Earhart, the first female aviator to fly solo across the Atlantic, was the muse behind his collection. Despite the inspiration, the collection didn’t take off. The designer definitely put a lot of effort in the research of materials, which looked refined and interesting, but the silhouettes and the overall mood weren’t equally charming. The lineup, which lacked a certain cohesiveness, was strong on tailoring, with a mannish suit showing a blazer with deconstructed lapels and a sharp-cut coat embellished with oversize translucent sequins. Feathers gave an eccentric touch to a tunic dress crafted from a fabric with a liquid effect, while shimmering mini frocks with see-through details were worn under maxi jackets. There was something odd about the shapes, the proportions and the color palette, which caused the collection to miss that freshness expected from a young, up-and-coming designer.

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