Having experimented with the Emporio show format these past few seasons — showing in London in 2017 and taking it on the road again, to Linate Airport, for a coed extravaganza last September — Giorgio Armani has come home, and in more ways than one.
This women’s-only show, staged at the Teatro Armani, was shorter, more focused, with clothes that were definitely more wearable than past seasons. Armani turned his attention back to tailoring, soft edges and what he does best, the jacket.
They came with nearly every outfit: Long and layered over short, poufy dresses, as cropped hoodie styles over swingy skirts, in shrunken baseball shapes or feathery light double-breasted styles with checks. Other jackets doubled as dresses, while coats had that signature Armani swing, in A-line shapes with geometric patterns and in artfully cropped puffers.
Daywear and eveningwear harked back to Armani’s Nineties heyday, with fluid trousers, cocktail dresses with flippy skirts, one with abstract white letters scattered across it, and a lineup of short, red evening ones, strapless, sparkling with crystals or adorned with fringes. The color palette — burnt orange, red, black and white — was nicer, too, while patterns were less busy than in the past. This is Emporio Armani back where it should be.