The first look on the runway encapsulated Ermanno Scervino’s mind-set for his fall collection: a mannish Prince of Wales coat over a romantic slipdress embroidered with crystals.
The Florence-based designer played with contrasts in terms of fabrics and the masculine-feminine dichotomy. Sequins punctuated cozy sweaters with generous turtlenecks in a delicate pastel palette of pink, yellow and azure — and the same concept was applied to a few men’s looks.
Tuxedos veered feminine in the softest lace and a tone-on-tone pattern drawn in crystals. A long coat with frog fasteners or a supple black leather coat were worn over laced dresses. Long, fluid dresses were also embellished with loose silk ribbons. A few of these white designs could very well have doubled as wedding gowns.
A stunner was also a double-breasted tuxedo jacket in a white floral jacquard embroidered with crystals over languid lace pants with the same motif. Over that went a trenchcoat trimmed with eco-friendly long-haired fur.
The designer has long championed Made in Italy production and has recently been increasing his efforts in developing new sustainable fabrics and techniques. This resulted in a collection that was meticulously crafted and fully telegraphed Italian craftsmanship and luxury.