No grunge, no gimmicks, just fluid, feminine tailoring and gorgeous textiles. That was Gabriele Colangelo’s fall 2019 collection, which featured fabrics with light effects he said were inspired by the ink and bleach painting technique, and a soothing palette of ice-white, deep gray, sky blue, beige nudes and solar yellow.

The layered lineup was full of grown-up dressing options for women who actually have lives beyond being photographed outside fashion shows, including a loose trenchcoat that combined sanded cotton twill and mink fur, worn over fluid solar yellow trousers; a gray-green leather sleeveless blouson with rib knit waistband over a pleated navy gabardine, side-button skirt, and an ivory pleated skirt with inky blue burnout overskirt, worn with navy blue sweater.

Relaxed suiting; shirt jackets, and coats with contrasting button lapels and single patch pockets were other highlights in this breath-of-fresh-air collection, which was understated but still very pretty.

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