Once upon a time, Snow White fell into the trap set by the evil queen…and crossed over to the other side. For fall 2019, James Long, creative director of Iceberg, set out to rewrite the classic fairy tale.
The first part of the collection, which was coed, featured sleek sportswear looks with princess-like balloon sleeves in royal blue: this “new version of the sporty tracksuit,” according to the designer, is worn over blue cycling shorts, paired with belt bags and knee-high boots.
The silhouettes turned to white, but don’t be fooled by the pristine palette: In addition to throwing studded crystal straps on collars and around waistlines, the brand introduced punky leather harnesses to its line of accessories. These were worn not across the chest but around the waist, with straps dangling down models’ legs. When paired with a silk chiffon skirt, the silhouette blended the masculine and the feminine while hinting at the subversive looks to come.
“We imagined Snow White going a bit wild after eating the apple,” laughed the creative director backstage, in reference to a hallucinogenic section in the show featuring all black and neon pink silhouettes.
On the runway, the music suddenly transformed to club tunes: oversize cardigan dresses were worn with lace-up boots, black bodysuits were studded with a crystal cityscape and looks were finished off with sunglasses in collaboration with Linda Farrow. Sweaters were decorated with illustrations from Walt Disney’s “Snow White,” while the Iceberg logo was spelled out on the back of puffa jackets, which are sure to appeal to logo-hungry Millennials.
It was all over the place — in the best possible way. Not a lot of designers can get away with a show finale set to too-recent-to-be-ironically-retro club tunes (Rihanna’s “Only Girl”). Long’s range is impressive, and his excitement infectious.