For Just Cavalli designer Paul Surridge, it’s all about balance. Between the statement pieces of the brand’s main line, Roberto Cavalli, and its younger counterpart, which the designer sees as a cross between a playground and an innovation tank; between body-confident Millennials and core clients with a preference for longer-sleeve dresses; between throwing back to the past and designing for the future.
All these tensions were cleverly expressed through the Just Cavalli fall collection. There was a strong sense of nostalgia, with an “Almost Famous”-style Mongolian shearling coat worn over a zebra-print jersey dress, Eighties mohair sweaters with an almost neonlike inscription and Nineties Neoprene logo tracksuits.
Dresses were either body-con — “the younger generation is very body-confident and truly believes in itself,” said Surridge, who looked at Instagram and Bella Hadid’s style to create these looks, as well as Netflix series “Pose” — or romantic long-sleeve versions, more suited for conservative dressers. There were rebellious twists: sharp tailoring was shaken up with a layer of sequins sewn onto a Prince of Wales check or a row of piercings along sleeves and trouser legs. This details was also found on a stunning rubber parka in the men’s line.
The men’s looks featured leisure pieces, such as black tracksuits with neon details inspired by the world of extreme sports, psychedelic painted jeans and college sweatshirts, alongside with more dressed-up items like a zebra-print smoking jacket. Male and female models wore the brand’s new unisex sneakers in various animal prints.