As she carries forward the company she inherited from her mother, Lavinia Biagiotti is thinking long term — figuratively and practically. “I want to bring what is extraordinary into our daily life, so that it is not fleeting and can last in time,” she mused backstage. To wit: She did not want to focus on eveningwear, which she thought would be “a bit limiting,” and offered a collection that would take her customers through the day.
In a can-do spirit, she said women’s empowerment is by now consolidated and “behind us, as today it’s about authenticity and awareness.” And, to close the show, the designer tapped a model that is representative not only of family — as she grew up watching her at work with her mother — but also of endurance and timeless beauty: Pat Cleveland.
Biagiotti played with the logo her mother trademarked in 1975 on everything ranging from knitwear and jackets to puffers, belts, boots and bags, adding a youthful touch to the collection. “It’s still very modern and it made me reflect that we are entering into the second decade of the Aughts,” she said. She didn’t want to comment on the social media accusations that the new Balmain logo is too similar to her brand’s, but one couldn’t help but wonder whether Biagiotti wanted to stake a claim with this lineup.
Biagiotti also played up the company’s expertise in knitwear, with sweaters embellished with loose knots that gave a three-dimensional depth. There were light cashmere rug-like fringed capes and dresses decorated with paisley patterns.
While the first part of the collection was as colorful as it gets, the last part of the show centered on Biagiotti’s representative color, white, including delicate lace slipdress with a boudoir feel.