Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s couture-inspired collection had some delightfully dark edges: Taking a cue from “Dressed to Kill” and other noir films, the designer sliced up and draped his clothing, sending his ladies down the runway with flesh — or flashes of silky underpants — on show. Other looks draped languidly around the body or came dramatically unzipped down the back.
“She’s a very knowing woman, not a baby doll,” the designer said of his muse for fall. Dell’Acqua has been in the fashion game for a long time, and works with a fine and steady hand: A toffee-toned tailored coat slipped off a shoulder at just the right angle while a prim, duchess satin trapeze dress with crystals flapped open to reveal the model’s back.
Peek-a-boo trenchcoats revealed and concealed while a formal green sequin dress was left open at the back to showcase a pair of silky, high-waisted underpants. Long sweaters shimmied down low to show off matching bra tops while pops of latex appeared in the bodices of dresses. Black tulle — laid over dresses, coats and skirts — added to the sense of mystery.
Other dresses came with oversize bows or detachable panels at the back, while a lineup of fur chubbies, in emerald, black or cherry, rounded out the Forties noir feel. Dell’Acqua even played Kim Carnes’ classic “Bette Davis Eyes” to drive home his golden age of Hollywood point. But there was no driving needed: Noir or not — these were just great clothes.