Stylist Jason Rembert, whose clients include Issa Rae, Rita Ora and Ezra Miller, followed a familiar path of red-carpet imagemakers getting into the fashion game when he showed his debut Aliette collection on Wednesday.
Inspired by the Caribbean island of Martinique, the lineup focused on classic, feminine silhouettes with an emphasis on eveningwear (as you’d expect). That manifested itself in a golden yellow goddess gown with low neckline and high slit, modeled by Winnie Harlow, and a red strapless sweetheart gown with beaded leather bodice and pleated organza skirt, both of which could have used more attention to fit and finish.
Daytime looks were more polished and had a more distinct point of view. Exhibits A and B: a slim, architectural coat in a black-and-white, hand-drawn jacquard depicting faces, worn with yellow cigarette pants, and the same jacquard made into a bustier over a leather pencil skirt. “I partnered with a graphic designer based in New York, Georgia Gardner Gray, to make the fabric, because I wanted to show strong, beautiful, positive black women with fuller and rounder noses,” said Rembert, still fussing with the clothes in front of the cameras. (Once a stylist, always a stylist.) “I come from a black woman, and my daughter will one day become a black woman, so I want to show representation.”
Rembert’s take on a power suit also had potential; a belted black blazer with padded square shoulders, worn with flared trousers. It had Issa Rae written all over it. (The star debuted Aliette on the red carpet at the Critics’ Choice Awards.)
Due to leave within hours of his presentation for Los Angeles where he will dress several stars for Oscars weekend, Rembert wasn’t sure if his new passion project would lead him to show on the traditional, seasonal fashion schedule or not. “For now, I’m just having fun doing it,” he said, quick to add that he is open for business. “Hopefully, I do get support from stores. I’ll definitely be checking my e-mails after this.”