“This season is all about personality,” Hellessy designer Sylvie Millstein said during a backstage interview before the show. “I want women to feel free to break new ground and be bold.”
And bold was the overall look of the collection, where deconstructed designs, flamboyant prints and vibrant colors met in a quiet yet eccentric lineup. “Over the past few seasons, our business has grown a lot and I think it’s time for us to tap into our own territory, but at the same time to expand certain categories,“ said the designer, mainly referring to the reinvented suits that opened the show. Jackets with detachable silk cuffs, pants with built-in shirts to tie around the hip and draped tops revealing hoodies were the freshest options in a collection where the juxtaposition of Americana striped motifs and paisley patterns, asymmetric gowns crafted from shimmering fabrics, denim accents and sequined styles led to a certain confusion.
The more-is-more approach can be fun, but sometimes keeping the focus on cohesiveness is a tie-breaker for a successful collection.