“I took a new approach to this collection,” Jill Stuart mused during a showroom appointment for her fall collection, “…a renewed point of view. I was working on pieces that were still young and feminine but strong at the same time and playful, very playful.” Stuart’s fall collection melded her flirty feminine aesthetic with an edgy, rock ‘n’ roll vibe. “Wild romance,” she called it.

Stuart’s lineup included rich textures — lots of velvets, jacquards, satins and lamés — in deep purples, blacks reds, channeling London’s Biba boutique during the Freddie Mercury era. Stuart paid attention to classic tailoring separates — “because I feel that my client likes to feel powerful and beautiful” while being able to mix and match. But these weren’t traditional suiting elements — a “Jagger” suit came rainbow striped in velvet, perfect “to play your favorite song and dance” in or lush satin smoking coat. Both of which Stuart expressed she had worn or was making a duplicate for herself.

Little jacquard crop tops with matching trousers, and an abundance of great new dresses, some of the best with red flocked velvet dots or in tactile striped velvet lamé with puffed sleeves. The collection mixed Stuart’s classic whimsy with edge, whether it was her velvet jeans — high-waisted, tight-fitting with straight legs in rich purple — paired with Lurex knits or ruffled lamé button-downs, in a fresh, modern way.

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