Marchesa has slowly been returning to the Hollywood red carpet this awards season, worn by Molly Sims at the Golden Globes and Sofia Hublitz of “Ozark” for the SAG Awards. Before that, Priyanka Chopra chose a Marchesa dress for her bridal shower, telling WWD, “Georgina’s a friend of mine…women supporting women: That’s what we’re all about.”
Despite the label’s apparent comeback momentum, the fall 2019 collection was presented during showroom appointments by couture design director Anna Holvik and Notte design director Ceazar Cabreros (who lead a combined team of 18), instead of designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, who have still not presented their work to the press, or spoken about their business, since the Harvey Weinstein scandal broke.
The collection continued its core mission of fanciful eveningwear, and the result was persuasively pretty enough that it deserves to be back on a runway. Taking inspiration from a fairy-tale forest, the designers offered lighter-than-air organza gowns with hand-painted floral artwork, allover floral and bird embroideries or 3-D cutout petals, as well as more sleek sheaths with detachable skirts, and crystal ribbon tassels and embroidery.
The lower-priced Marchesa Notte collection, with prices starting at $595, took inspiration from artwork by Christopher Beane, with photo realistic floral prints, velvet embroideries, foil applications or 3-D flowers created from floral organza petals mixed with feathers, decorating feminine dresses, flirty skirts and tops. Both lines are putting a renewed emphasis on separates, the design directors said. “Our aesthetic is very similar,” Holvik said of the two collections, adding, “But we let them lead their own lives.”