A healthy number of sequins, tulle in abundance and a mix of generous shapes are standard issue for Monique Lhuillier. Take those hallmarks, add a strong dash of the Eighties and the result is the designer’s fall collection.

“I was really going for excess,” she said at a preview in her New York showroom, name-checking Jerry Hall and Joan Collins. “This collection is so glamorous to me. You just want to go to a party every night.”

That go-go decade gave Lhuillier a framework to really turn up the volume on her designs. Think exaggerated sleeves and shoulders, asymmetrical necklines on flowing gowns and fabrics with a lot of texture to them, like velvet, which came in a burgundy evening jumpsuit. Her high-octane dressing included lots of gowns but she also offered a variety of cocktail options, including a “little black dress” in Chantilly lace.

Around a third of the collection consisted of daywear options, with separates— dresses, skirts, blouses and a few pants — in vibrant colors, and a mix of prints.

The designer, who has worked with fur in the past, is now beginning to transition to faux fur, showing mink-like black and white outerwear as well as a fox-like burgundy coat and a blush bomber jacket meant to cap her over-the-top evening looks.


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