Designer Moon Choi has been in the fashion game with her eponymous label for just around two years. Within that time, she’s established a gender-fluid identity of minimalist dress that relies on traditionally mannish styles with conceptually driven touchstones. The brand is broadly appealing, namely because unique references underlie her spare, modernist inclinations.

Choi said she was inspired by the duality of movement and human emotion for fall. “I believe life is not a single layer. It’s about experiences and movement. I really thought about how the garment flows with our bodies and emotions.” To show that thread of movement, she lightly twisted and wrapped the lines of garments in ways that naturally follow the body. For instance, a new category of chic jersey knit tops in dusty tones of mustard and grayish-green were twisted at the torso as if the wearer had turned around; ditto for a similarly body-hugging navy dress.

She balanced familiar open-panel coats against unexpected drama, notably with an impossibly chic trench coat with asymmetric construction and floaty panels along the sleeves that were meant to represent multi-layered identity. The dynamic between warped edges and straight lines was infinitely attractive.

The collection was just as much a statement on comfort, too, not only with the introduction of hoodies and sweatshirts spruced up by twisted necklines, but also by the notion that these pieces envelop and protect. Comfort and confidence, warmth and ease, it was, according to Choi, “structure that feels good.”

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