For fall, Nicole Miller started with a sustainable approach via recycling and reworking vintage pieces, i.e. denim and cashmere sweaters, which evolved into thinking about what everybody does, every day. “Everybody goes to work and then to the gym,” she said backstage. So Miller styled business suits with athletic sports bras and joggers. “And then everybody is trying to make decisions, reading their horoscopes,” which prompted embroidered and printed horoscope symbols on easy black dresses and blouses.

Everybody’s always trying to strike a balance between being serious and fun, saving the world or going out and having a good time. So the collection’s about everything going on in your life, but not giving up on the fun part,” she concluded. The lineup wasn’t particularly thematic, but rather had many mini-themes: a bit of punk with reworked hashtag-bedazzled vintage kilts, chunky combat boots, layers of plaids and metal chains; corporate girl with pinstriped boyfriend blazers, button-down shirting (some tie-dyed nonetheless); party girl with a standout faux-fur-trimmed miniskirt, a leather jacket complete with a random array of patch-worked words and slogans (“no reentry,” “until further notice,” “rave”) or a vibrant, faux-fur leopard coat over an embroidered minidress. “Netflix and chill” made an appearance as a great test-screen graphic done two ways: as a printed patchwork made from old club posters on a T-shirt or woven into a navy cashmere sweater. It was very busy and animated, purposely so, but lively with a strong commercial appeal.

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