It’s a strong season of modern, smart dressing, but designer Ryan Roche has been doing this long before you’d ever consider it a “trend.” After taking a short hiatus, Roche returned to the New York Fashion Week schedule à la traditional runway show format to present a lovely women’s and debut men’s collection. For Roche, the label is a family affair — her husband Garrett designed the men’s wear, their son walked the runway (clad in a pale olive ensemble), and their daughter helped with the show’s music.

The collection of monochromatic layers processioned from light (off-white, beige, concrete gray) to dark (beige, black) neutrals with striking new pops of color (light olive, mustard yellow, vibrant red) in between. The duo aimed to amp up the fashion in their lineup of Italian wool gabardine, French lace and cashmere silks, and cashmere separates and did so in a subtle, chic way.

“We’re both still inspired by the Eighties and Nineties…the tailoring. Especially for the girls, I love that tomboy, masculine vibe.…But it’s always really feminine as well,” Roche expressed. A super fine tank top with a shiny loose blazer and crisp white trousers emulated it best. Other exceptionally good options for women’s wear included slinky knit lace-trimmed tank dresses, a floor-length yellow cardigan and a beige camel coat atop matching knit tunic and trousers with slits up running all the way up the front. Men’s cable knit sweaters, a standout in red, were inspired by Garrett’s Irish heritage; leisure suiting also made for an important aspect in men’s wear.

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