Fall 2019 seemed to be a maturation time for Self-Portrait, which has evolved from girly-sweet to urban-cool. “It’s a bit more tailoring this season, but with a Self-Portrait twist. It’s still fun but I wanted to have those pieces which are a bit more classy,” said creative director Han Chong backstage after the show. The result was a lineup that looked sharper, more metropolitan and versatile than previous efforts.

As the designer mentioned, tailoring informed the silhouettes of many looks, such as a range of black coats, jumpsuits and suits inspired by classic tuxedos. Taffeta jumpsuits and dresses revealed feminine draping, while minimal, clean frocks in graphic shapes were enriched with ruffles and crystal trimming.

Like many designers of his generation, Chong is perfectly aware of the collection’s delivery schedule. “These clothes hit stores in late July-August, which means that while it’s still summer, people want to shop for winter clothes,” said the designer, explaining his desire to work with light fabrics and textures. For example, a pair of black leather shorts had lace details for a sensual, lingerie-like feel, which also defined a navy metallic mini dress injected with a nocturnal vibe.

While the show opened with black and white options, Chong didn’t renounce prints and vibrant tones. A gingham motif was matched with stripes in a look with a Lurex second-skin turtleneck layered under a maxi apron dress, while micro and macro flowers created a charming, graphic patchwork on draped midi frocks embellished with tiny bows and a lace insert.

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