It’s been several seasons since Yigal Azrouël has mounted a proper runway show. “I don’t miss it at all,” he said at a preview of his latest collection. Not being bound to the runway has freed him up to think of new ways to tell his seasonal message. For fall he used a film called “Reflection” to shed light on what is takes to build his collection. “The process and how I work was the inspiration,” Azrouël said point blank.
The film shows exactly that. As models walk, Azrouël studies the movement and proportions of his silhouettes, gauging how his work has come to life. The piece is projected onto a wall of a West Chelsea gallery space, and while the average runway show lasts about 10 minutes, Azrouël’s “show” runs until Feb. 27 and is open to the public.
“Every designer is an artist in a way, why not show it in a gallery,” he said. In an age where there are many points of access to fashion, it’s an interesting twist on inviting the customer into his world.
The film sees him once again meditate on texture, fabrication and proportion, all themes the designer is known for. Here he builds a wardrobe by deconstructing classic pieces. There was, for example, a royal blue corduroy coat, given an oversized raglan shape with patchwork corduroy, done in tiles, each flowing in a different direction and adding another layer of texture. Or roomy hand-made cable knits paired with soft flowing wide-legged pants, easy staples for a daytime wardrobe. Dresses with layered folds cascading down the front offered a softness, while leather pieces, like a moto jacket with knit sleeves gave edge. It’s these types of dualities that are at the core of Azrouël’s work: Each piece a building block to a throughly modern wardrobe.